Hoodies X 3 (plus a PJ pants)

I'm in the mood of sewing fleece hoodies now. Yes, here in hot and humid Singapore! I must be mad but they are so addictive. Especially when the fleece are sold at $6 per metre at Spotlights during the recent 40% sale.

Recently I realised that my local Spotlight had increase the variety of fabric and there are more interesting print for knit and fleece. Look at all those prints and I can't resist to get some.  The fleece is super soft but i think those selling at $9 is of better quality, which I used for the diamond goodies and jellybean hoodies above.  The blue floral one is nice but not as soft.

Okay, let's look that the hoodies individually.  The diamond hoodie is made from a pattern in one of my favourite Ottobre issue 4/2012.  If you want to sew jackets/hoodies, this issue is pack full with different designs.  I've used this pattern before to make the Alphine hoodie for my girl, called "Born to Run" but upgraded the size to 146 for my skinny 12 year old nephew.

It is an unlined hoodie and I left out the drawstring and pockets. I use ribbing for the sleeve cuff and hem. Managed to find a matching colour from my stash.  I even have the right length separating zipper in white! Good to always stock up at Daiso once in a while : ) 

I love the diamond print but the fleece is really very shifty.  I traced the pattern with the right side facing up so that I have better control of the layout and direction of the print. But it is not easy at times.  Thankfully, the fleece is very stretchy so little mistakes are hidden.  The hood is lined with single jersey.

For my niece, I made her an unlined hoodie with big pockets, pattern also from the same issue #33. Roxy Royal hoodie jacket.  I remove the kangaroo pocket in the pattern and replace it with another pocket from #27 Funny Fox pattern.  I also lined the hood with jersey knit and use ribbings for the sleeve cuff, pocket edge and the joint between the hoodie lining and the bodice.

The pocket pieces are sewn on top of the front panel and using flatlock stitch to stitch around the edge. But my machine didn't come with that so I decided to insert some pink ric arc between the pocket and main jacket and just zig zag the pockets down. It looks very cute and quite matching right? I'm extremely pleased with my foresight that I have just the perfect powder blue separating zipper in the right length.  I got them from Daiso again.

My niece is quite petite so I use size 128 and had enough fabric left over to make a PJ pants for my sister! 

The pattern is from a Japanese sewing magazine Female Autumn 2013 issue.

I used size L and didn't include the hem ribbing as the size for Japanese pattern is for 165 but I'm only 160. The length is just nice and the fit is perfect! I'm surprise how comfy the pant is.

            

The waistband fits nicely too with the elastic. I just measure my waist and cut the elastic band which i find is a better fit. I left 1" gap at the seams when I sew the waistband and use it to insert the elastic. This gap will be there after you completed the pants so that you can always adjust the elastic as you grow horizontally!

Anyway, back to my hoodie.  The 3rd hoodie is for my mum.  I owe her one hand made garment. Since I've started sewing, I didn't have courage to sew anything for my mum. She is a sewist so I was afraid that my standard will not meet her expectation. But I'm glad that I can sew her a jacket for her coming oversea trip. 

The pattern is from Ottobre Woman Autumn/Winter issue 5/2011 #6. Saturday Chilling hoodie. I use size 40 but took off some length since Ottobre is designed for height 164-172cm.  I also didn't use the recommended sleeve cuff but just use the main fabric and create a shorter length cuff.  I especially love the pockets which you can't really see from the busy print.  The pocket edge is bind with ribbing and it is quite roomy.

I only bought 1 meter so didn't quite have enough for the whole hoodie so I use the ribbing for the sleeves.  I think it works better since the sleeves help to tone down the jacket with the busy print.  I'm super super happy that I managed to line the directional print on the front! I also run out of zipper of that length so I use snap buttons which I only had 6, so it was nerve racking and I was so scared of making mistakes.  You can hardly see the white snap buttons here. Most proud of the matching print across the front : )

I cut the back piece on fold instead of 2 separate pieces to save my fabric.  To do that, I straighten the centre back seams (the original design has curve seam lines for better slim fit) so that I can cut on fold.  The jacket is also unlined and I bind the hood edge with ribbing as well.  I didn't even line the hood since the fleece is so soft and I didn't want to hide them away. The colourful print at the centre seams of the hood create an interesting feature at the back.

So, here are my 3 hoodies.  I usually try to cut my patterns and fabric on one night and leave the sewing to another night so that my sewing will not be interrupted.  Cutting and tracing really take up a lot of time and energy. I usually lose steam after all the back bending ( I trace on the floor since I don't have such big table).

I've just delivered the hoodies to them and I'm happy to see happy recipients of my gifts of love.  Sewing hoodies are so fun. It is so additive, believe me.  Now, if only I have time to sew one for my hubby and me : ) 

Colour block hoodie dresses

Another Hoodie, this time a dress!

The hoodie on the left is from the pattern from Ottobre design 4/2013 'Pentagram Hoodie' size 140 while the one on the right side is adapted from 'Beagle Boy Striped Hoodie' size 104.  I said 'adapted' because I use the measurements of Beagle Boy hoodie but copy the design from Pentagram Hoodie because the smallest size offered is only 128.

Let's talk about the Pentagram Hoodie first.  The original pattern uses different knit print for the pockets, hood and cuff so I decided to color block using pink and purple. Both favorite colors of my girls.

On my oldest request, I change the combination so that they are not identical. Something about the 3 year old wanting to wear the same clothes as her Big Sister but the feeling is not mutual!  The fabric used is Winter fleece from Fabric.com. The fleece is not as soft and fine as the micro fleece but still soft but much thicker.

Changes made to the Pentagram Hoodie:

1. Added lining to hood [cut hood lining slightly smaller so that lining will not show out at edge]
2. Omit hood ribbing since I'm going to line the hood

I use the decorative stitch for the hood facing, sleeve hem and the joint between the bodice and hem band.

For my younger girl, changes I made:

1. Lengthen the hoodie to tunic/dress length using 128 size of Pentagram hoodie
2. Added a new Hem band of 5"
3. Flare out the hoodie by 1.25" on both sides so that it is more A line [I think this looks much better than the original Pentagon hoodie]
4. Add Kangaroo pocket using the same template in Pentagram hoodie
5. Add lining to the hood

She loves to put her hands in the gigantic pockets.  Sleeve is very long and it covers her fingers.  The hood is large and totally cover her head when she pull it over. I think the A line shape is more flattering than the original Pentagon tunic straight cut design.  

Add bias tape to the pocket opening

I used another decorative stitch on my machine for my younger girl so that it will be different from her sister.  Notice the color blocking is different for both girls?

Note to self:

I used stretch stitch (2.0 zig zag and 2.5 stitch length).  The tension used is 5 and pressure foot is set at 3 to account for the stretch fleece.  I also used walking foot for the entire sewing.

Blue fleece dress

Another Winter sewing for me!  Pattern is from Ottobre 5/2009 Tunic pattern.

I used some blue fleece that I got on sale from Spotlight at $4/meter for this dress.  Lengthen the sleeve to my wrist and added a inseam pocket. I used size 36 which is slightly bigger but good for layering I guess (good excuse for poor judgement : P)

I love the neckband which is quite unique. I use a decorative stitch on my machine to top stitch around the neckband.

The color for the dress went off when I use my handphone to take photo. See how nicely flat the neckline is on me even though it is big. Yes, I wore it to office today cause the air con is seriously cold...

Dress with a belt to clinch it in. Waistline seems to be rather high but I think it is a design factor. 

This one is without belt.  See the difference?

I think it is also very twirling too since it is so big.  I love the dress though but next time, I'll go one size smaller.  It is nice and warm. Length wise it is just nice, touching my knee. The skirt was gathered using clear elastic which I think is really useful for having evenly space gathers. I just zig zag the clear elastic onto the seam allowance of the skirt panel. Length of the elastic is the same as your bodice so your final skirt will match the bodice width! easy.  

I also clear elastic on the shoulder seams which help to stablise the seams. The clear elastic is from a shop at Textile centre. I'm always happy to learn new sewing techniques from Ottobre.

I will definitely sew this again, in size 34.  I added inseam pocket for the dress so it was really good to put in my cold fingers. Next time, I'll try using a lighter knit or lycra for this.