Doll Carry Basket

For the last Christmas, my girls got the Baby Alive toys from their doting Uncle and Aunt. I thought it will be lovely to make a doll basket for them to carry the dolls around.

Here I'll just be sharing some tips on how I made one. I didn't really look for any tutorial since it is basically a oblong base with side panels and straps.

First measure your doll to get the rough size how big your basket should be. Leave some ease for the little hand to put in their baby and blanket. My doll is around 14" tall and I made it to 16" long.

You just need 3 basic shapes (base, side panel and strap) and 2 fabric for outer and inner basket. I use fleece to make it soft but you can also batting or interface the fabric to make it stronger. To make the base sturdy, I insert a plastic canvas in-between the fleece/batting and main fabric.  

Here's how I did it.  First, cut all the pieces out.

Then, sew the base Lining piece to the fleece/batting but leave about 10" gap unsew along the middle portion to insert the plastic canvas. Once you inserted in, sew up the gap. Set aside.

For the Inner side panel, I also sandwich the main, fleece and inner fabric and do a simple quilting so that it will be strong and will stand since I didn't interface the fabric. I think I should have done it to make it sturdier.

Right side facing, place the side panel onto the base, starting from the top middle portion and start pining away. Try to align the raw edge and coming to the end points, leave about 3" unpin and sew up the side seams of the side panel. Then, pin the remaining side panel (which is now a loop) to the base. This will ensure that your side panel fits the base exactly.

Do the same for the outer basket except that there is just the Base + Side panel, without the fleece or plastic canvas to battle with.  Insert the inner basket into the outer basket, align the side seams.

Pin like crazy along the top edge. Then, sew all around the top edge.

Take a double fold bias tape and start pining along the top edge that you've just sewn.

Sew around again.

Next, take the 2 long stripe and sew them right side facing along the long side and turn it right side out. Do the same for the other 2 pieces. Fold in the raw edge on the short ends and sew them onto the basket.  Measure your kid so you know how long you want the strap to be.

And, there is your Doll basket! Add a pillow or blanket and your baby are good to go.

Simple Cinch Pouch

As mentioned in my previous post, my 7 year old made this in 30 minutes. To be more specific, I've helped to cut the pieces out and helped her to do some pinning while she did the sewing and inserting the ribbons.  But I'm so proud that she did sew them up herself!

Material
- one layer cake (10" X 10") of fabric A for main pouch and 1/2 layer cake (10" X 5")  of fabric B for the ribbon channel.

We have used a layer cake (10" pre-cut square) that helped to speed up the process. Each layer cake can make 1 pouch. If you don't have a layer cake, it's ok. Just cut out 2 pieces of fabric 10" X 5" each.  For the ribbon channel, cut 2 stripes of 2.5" X 10".

- 2 grosgrain ribbons of 24" long

Sewing

1. Cut the layer cake A into 2 of size 10" X 5" each

2. Cut the layer cake B into 2 stripes of size 10" X 2.5" each. Keep the bottom portion for another pouch if you want.

3. Pin one of the 2.5" stripe to the main panel along the 10" side. Remember, Right side facing each other.  Sew using 3/8" seams allowance. Zig zag the raw edge or use a serger if you have one. Press the seams upwards towards the narrow stripe. Do the same for the other piece.

4. Pin the 2 pieces Right Side facing, align the edge as shown below. Take careful note of what I'll be explaining below.

a. When you pin the 2 pieces together, mark 1" below the top (see pink line). This will be the indication of the start of the ribbon channel that you will have to leave unsewn. 

b. Start sewing from the right top corner and stop before the pink line. Then start sewing again at the joint between the stripe and main pouch body, down the bottom of the pouch and up again on the left side of the pouch.  Remember to stop sewing along the joint and then start sewing again from the pink line to the top of the pouch. 

c. The reason for leaving the gap on both the left and right seams is to make the ribbon channel which you will understand in step 6.

5. Press the side seams open and zig zag or serge the raw edge on top.

6. Fold the strip about 1" to the Wrong Side of the pouch (i.e. fold the strip into the inner side of the pouch) like so. Pin and make sure that the gap that you have left earlier is nicely place along the top folded edge. 

7.  Sew carefully along the stripe so now you ribbon channel is completed with 2 openings along the side seams!

8. Cut 2 pieces of grosgrain ribbons about 24" long. Insert one ribbon from one opening though the whole channel and exit from the same start point.

Insert the other ribbon through the other opening and out again from the same start point. Tie a knot and make sure that the ribbon is not twisted in the channel.

9. There! Your finished pouch with the 2 ribbons.

This is how the pouch will look when you cinch it.

So, go ahead and make 4 more! They make a nice pouch to put in small gifts. We are able to put in a box of Evelyn and Crabtree hand cream in one since it is longish and is the perfect size. Now, don't you want to try them out yourself?

Exposed Zipper Top

When I saw this colorful striped cotton at Spotlight, I envisioned a simple top with exposed zipper. So, that's what I did when I got home since I've got just a the colored metal zipper to go with it.

The fabric actually had more colors but I only used the top portion with purple, blue, grey and yellow.  It's a simple top that I just trace off one of my existing top. I've made the front shorter than the back so that it will be more of a tapered short top look.

This is how I insert the exposed zipper.
1) Measure the size of your zipper and back bodice. Place your zipper in position to get a gauge on how long you want the zipper to be exposed. Using a disappearing pen, draw the zipper position, starting from neckline.

2) Cut a piece of fabric slightly wider and longer than your zipper.  This is actually the zipper facing that you will sew with your zipper.  Treat the seams by serging or zig zag all the raw edges. Using the disappearing pen again, draw a line in the middle of the Facing.

3) Then, pin the facing in the middle of the back where the zipper position is. Remember that the Facing and Back bodice are Right Side Facing. i.e. Facing has the Right side face down. 

4) Start sewing from the top, aligning the left side of your zipper foot to the middle of the line of the Facing. See below. The distance is up to you. If you wish to expose more of your zipper, you can sew it further away from the middle line. As an after thought, I should have sewn it further away so that more of the zipper is exposed. Oh well. Live and Learn. Sew all the way down and then turn right angle and sew about 0.5" or 1", depending how wide is your zipper. Then, lift up your zipper foot again, with needle still in the fabric, turn the fabric again so that you can continue to sew up towards the neckline. You will be sewing a rectangle around the middle line on the Facing.

5) Then, use a scissor and cut from the neckline, all the way down near the end of the rectangle. At the ends, you can cut 2 slits to help you turn the facing to the wrong side. Then, turn the facing to the Wrong side of the back bodice. Press with iron so that it lies flat.

6) Now, you can place your zipper behind the rectangle and pin in place.

7) Using a zipper foot, sew all around the rectangle opening and you are done sewing the zipper!  Just need to sew up the shoulder seams for front and back. Hem the sleeves and bottom and you are good to go.

For the front of the bodice, I've made a simple small pleat to make it more interesting. Here's the front view. 

Back view with the exposed zipper

closer look at the zipper

Side view with matching stripes and interesting high low front and back.

My kids were trying to get into the picture and I'm trying hard to push them away here. I was rushing off to work and trying to take some photos before I dash off to work.  

Now, I really need to get into the sewing mojo since Christmas is around the corner again. This time I'll pace myself and do what I can.  Maybe I can just buy the gifts this year : P

I've actually sewn 2 jackets for the girls. They are really cute although maybe too hot for our weather here.  Will share more in next post.

Yellow Dove Sofa Cover

Time flies. It's November and I've not been sewing much. Well, the reason was we have shifted house and did a lot of packings, unpacking, throwing away unused items and cleaning, fixing, etc etc in the whole month of October.

I can't believe we have 53 cartons of items! That exclude the plastic toyogo boxes of clothes, breakable items, potted plants, sewing machines etc. Thank God we had planned well and the move was executed smoothly. I'm blessed and so touched that my parents came over to help us with the move.

Anyway, the only thing I've sewn in October was a new sofa cover. There is this sofa set that my mother in law gave us. The original cover were quite coarse against the skin and I didn't like the dark color.  So, I had this insane idea to sew a new cover myself. Yah, what was I thinking. Here was I  cutting up the fabric in the midst of packing with carton boxes piling all around me. But I just can't bear to hold the sewing till the move.

Anyway, I didn't get to finish them before the move. Only managed to finish the 3 bottom seat cushion covers since they are basic rectangles. The fabric is a mustard yellow corduroy that I got from Spotlight.  For the measurement I took the original cover and measure off them to get the estimates.

The top of the sofa was a bit of challenge since it is not a strict rectangle but more of the slope on the front.  So I trace out the existing one and make a template. The only paper template that I made.  You can see my template below if you are interested to try this. I've use the space inside the template to note down all the measurements for the 3 sofa covers.  So I only need to keep this template that also contain the measurement instruction! The sofa set consist of 2 smaller ones and 1 big one so you will see 2 measurements.

click to see.

Did you notice that the Dove print for the 2 smaller sofa set below actually match across? I'm so pleased with this. This is due to the precise cutting layout you see below.  The twill fabric with yellow dove print is also from Spotlight. From afar, my girl commented that it looks like yellow spectacles. Oh well. I fell in love with the cheery color and print but you know what, the grain was off for this print! If you intend to buy this same fabric, just be careful. Since I'm more concerned that the print down look off align, I just ignore the fabric grain and just cut along the print so that it will still looks straight.  I also use bigger seam allowance so that it will cover the off grain print.

The cutting layout draft for the Dove print. I label each piece by A, B, C, D so it's easier to plan and draw. Basically this will help me to visualize the amount of fabric that I need. It's important to draw this especially if you have directional print. Since my fabric is off grain, in the end I needed more so back to the store the next day!

Here's my girl enjoying herself on the new sofa cover. Please ignore the steel shelvings below. There are still some unpacking to do so I taking a break to sew here. Hopefully I can hit the sewing room for some clothes sewing soon.

Making a Terrarium

Sorry for the delays in posting the tutorial on Terrarium. I was busy sewing lately..Here's the step by step guide on how to make a mini terrarium at home.  Was trying to have some photo but it's very messy with soil and all, so sorry folks, you gotta use your imagination here!

Supplies to get ready

1) small potted plants that are suitable for growing with little sunlight ($3-$4 for one pot of 4 stalks)

2) moist soil -can ask nursery for the suitable one for terrarium ($3 for a big pack)

3) little charcoal (break them into small pieces)

4) pretty bottles ($2 each from Daiso)

5) coloured pebbles ($2 a bottle at Daiso)

6) coloured sands (got mine from a shop at City Square Mall at 4 for $10) - optional

7) small decoration pieces (4 for $2) - optional #

# My friend recently went Bangkok and got these for only $0.10 a piece!

 Instruction

1) Sand -You can skip this steps but I feel that the coloured sands make it more special. 

- Pour your choice of coloured sands into the bottle. Go slow to let the sand just flow along the sides of the bottle. I use a slender spoon with a long handle to help me put in the sand.

- Lay a few layers if you like but try not to make it higher than 1/5 of the bottle.

- To save on the sand used, you can try to fill up the sands around the circumference of the bottle and let the centre but hollow.

2) Small Pebbles

- drop some pebbles into the middle of the glass where you have earlier left it hollow from the coloured sands.

- The pebbles should be a thin layer to help with the drainage of the water in the bottle.

3) Charcoal

- Add a little crushed charcoals on top of the pebbles. The charcoal is required only if you intend to cover the bottle. If you are making an open terrarium, can skip this step. The charcoal basically remove the moldy smell in the bottle.

4) Moist soil

- Covered all up with the soil. Pack the soil so that it is compact with no air inbetween.  The soil and the coloured sands/pebbles should come up to 1/3 of the bottle.

- I use this coffee stirrer that has its ends bent to help me pack the soil. My friend use lighter to heat the area to make it bend. So clever of her!

5) Insert the plant

- Depending how big your bottle, you can put 1, 2 or more plants into the bottle. Make sure that you don't injure the roots when you transfer the plant from the pot to your bottle.

- Use a disposable chopstick to dig a hole in the middle of the soil big enough for you to insert the roots of the plant.

- If you have 2 plants, put them together and insert together. Press the soil over the roots using the stirrer.

6) Coloured sands/pebbles

- Now the fun part, cover the soil with the coloured sands. You can just put 1 to 2 thin layers.

- Covered the top with coloured pebbles. I use 3 packs of coloured pebbles in one mix to create this pretty combi. Just a thin layer will do.

- Put in your decoration and you are done.

7) Lastly, just put a table spoon of water into it and cover the bottle. That's it. You are all done.

Some sources to get your supplies

• Most nursery carry the moist soil and plants. Your plants need to be small and young shoots in order for it to look pretty in the bottle. I got mine from a nursery in Ang Mo Kio. But my friends also found them at Tampines and even Ikea.  It's about $3 to $4.50 per bottle. Far East at Thomson is more expensive at $5.80 per pot.
• Coloured sands should be available in craft shops. I got mine from a little shop at City Square Mall at 4 packs for $10. You can choose from a variety of colours. The sands are very fine. You can also get them from Daiso but they are less fine.
• Coloured pebbles can also be purchase at nursery. But I got the most supplies from Daiso. It's only $2 per pack and there are so many colours and sizes options.
• Bottle. So many places. I got mine from Daiso at $2, Ikea and those I got at home. If you intend to give a gift, the Daiso's bottle with cap looks very presentable. But not all Daiso carry them so it will be good to check first. I saw them at illuma, Bukit Panjang and Rivervale Mall.

So, now go and buy your supplies and make it. It is very addictive and so easy that my 7 year old made 7 in not time.

Knit Tapered T-shirt

I made this T-shirt some time ago but didn't have time to take photo of the final product.  It's really comfortable T-shirt that I drafted myself.  I traced one of my favorite knit tee to get the basic shape but make it longer so that the tee will fall at my hip.

To save the steps, I only use one pattern piece.  Simply adjust the neckline and hem and you can get 2-in-1 template here.  For the neckline, I snip the front neckline but leave the ends uncut so that I can use both for the front and back! My front neckline is about 2" below the back neckline.

For front of the tee, I make the hem to be higher in front than the back. I use a curve ruler and draw the curve by just eye ball it.

For the back pattern, I also use the curve ruler to make a rounded curve downwards. You just add this piece when you cut the back piece.

Then, place your pattern on fold and cut the front and back out.  Because I've use a stripe knit, I need to match the stripe from the front and back so that the side seams match.  Remember to add seam allowance before you cut. I use 3/8" for all.

I also use the remaining knit to make a small cap sleeves. Sorry, no photo here.

For the sewing, just do the 4 steps below.

1. Pin the front and back shoulder seams together, Right Side facing and sew using 3/8" seams allowance. Press seams open and serge the seams.

2. Attach the sleeves to the arm hole, Right Side facing, and sew using 3/8" seams allowance. Serge the seams.

3. Place the front and back, Right Side facing, sew the side seams starting from armhole to the hem. Try to match the stripes. Serge the seams starting from the sleeves to the hem.

4. Fold over the neckline and sew using a twin needle.

Since the knit is very lightweight, I decided not the hem the sleeve and hem. If you are uncomfortable, you can fold over and sew using the twin needle. That's it. Easy right.