Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Colour Block Skirt - A tutorial

Here's the simple tutorial if you would like to sew a simple colour block flare skirt.

Main color block - 1 metre of 45" width
Hem color block - 1/4" metre of 45" width
5" zipper
Stiff interfacing for the waistband
Some fabric covered buttons or hock/snaps

I've given the measurement accordingly to our size but you can adjust accordingly. I'm using the full width of the fabric so you only need to cut the length that you want! Easy.

The skirt will gathered a lot and make it very full. If you like it less full, you can adjust the width accordingly. Seam allowance (SA) is 3/8".  Please read through the whole instruction before you start just incase you missed the steps!

1 pc A = [Waistband width + SA] X (Waist + 2")
2 pc B = [Length of main skirt + SA] X 45" [for my 2 year old, I've cut the width to 33"]
2 pc C = [Length of hem + SA] X 45"

You need 1 pc of A and 2 pcs of B and C
A and C will be fold over lengthwise 

Blue & Yellow [my girl is a tall and skinny 7 year old]
A = 4.75" X 24 [interfacing = 2 X 23.25"]
B = 11.75" X 45"
C = 6.75" X 45"

Brown [I'm 160m tall with 28" waist]
A = 5.75" X 30" [interfacing = 3"X 29.25"]
B = 16.75" X 45"
C = 8.75" X 45"

Orange [chubby tall 2 year old]
A = 3.75" X 22" [interfacing = 1.5" X 21.25"]
B = 9.75" X 33"
C = 4.75" X 33"

1. Cut 1pc of A, 2 pc of B and 2 pc of C. Serge all the raw edges.
2. Fold A into half lengthwise with Wrong side facing and press to make the fold line. Fold in 3/8" on both ends to the wrong side and press.  
3. Iron the interfacing piece to one side on the inside of the folded waistband A, align to the folded edge. Your interfacing will be nicely encase within the folded edge. Set aside.

4. Align the side seams of the 2 pc of B together, right side facing.

 and sew with 3/8" seam allowance on one side. 
Press seams open. Do the same for 2 pc of C.

5. Slip B under C and align the long edge, Right Side Facing.  Pin B to C taking care to align the side seams that you have just sewn.

Sew with 3/8 SA to attach the hem color block to the main skirt.  Press seams towards the main skirt B and top stitch on the edge of B to keep seams down.

6. Align the other short edge of the skirt, Right Side facing and pin. Take care to align the hem color block so that they are inline.

Sew with 1" SA and press seams open for inserting of the zipper.

Centre Zipper Sewing
# If possible, use an invisible zipper for better results. I've used what I've on hand as I'm pressed for time. So I'm sharing how to insert a normal centre lapped zipper along the side seams.

7. Lay your zipper, Pull Tab face down along the seams that you've just sewn. The middle of the zipper should be in the center of the seam. Pin.

8. Using your zipper foot, start sewing from the left side, up to the bottom of the zipper (just before the end of the metal stopper) and then down to the right side towards the zipper tab.

Take note that you will need to pull the zipper tab up or down when you sew close to them. Go slower and you may need to adjust the pull tab as you sew. Just remember to keep your needle down on the skirt before you lift up the presser foot and adjust the tab.

Stop sewing just before the metal stopping and
sew over a few times at the end to secure before moving up.
this is how the zipper look like from the front. Neat!
9. Use your seam ripper and cut open the seams along the zipper teeth. Be careful not to cut beyond the stop line.

Try pulling your zipper tab up and down to check alignment.

10.  To fit the skirt to the waistband, you need to sew gathering stitch along the waist of the skirt.  Using the longest stitch width on your sewing machine and the longest tension, sew along the top of the skirt piece.

Then, pull the thread to gather the skirt more so you can fit them nicely over your waistband.

11. Once your skirt is ready, pin them to the waistband, right side facing, leaving about 1" free on one side to make the button holes later.

Like my chiffon skirt, I didn't want to leave pin marks on the waistband and 
the interfacing is quite stiff, so I've used paper clips. 
It really helped to stablise the thick gathers when I sew.

12. Using a slightly longer stitch width (I use 3), Sew the waistband to the skirt.

13. Flip the waistband upright so that Right side face out and topstitch along the edge of the waistband.

Notice the nice 1" waistband that is not sewn the skirt? This is for the button holes.
14. Sew the button holes on the flap or if you like, snap or hock or velcro, whatever that works for you and you are done!

Time to show off your new skirts!

This one makes me laugh!

Now, isn't she the cutest! 

1 comment:

Tonia L said...

You are totally right! Your girls are so cute and so are the skirts! My daughter needs some more skirts so I will have to remember this tutorial!
~Tonia @TheGunnySack