Thursday, March 15, 2012

Modification to Lisette 2064

Sorry for the late post but I was kinda caught up at work but here's the tutorial on how to make the 2 tier skirts from Lisette 2064 skirts.

Before you cut the pieces out, you need to adjust the measurement for the outer skirt and work out the measurement for the inner skirt.  Here's how I did it.

My 7 year old is skinny so she took the size 6 but I adjusted the inner skirt to be 1" longer and the outer skirt to be the size 6 pattern piece.  For my 2 year old, the smallest size available is size 3 so I cut the skirt length to be 1" shorter for outer skirt and the inner skirt to keep to size 3 skirt length.  You will now have 2 more extra pieces for the Front and Back skirt.

Decide on how you want to use the 2 coordinating fabric and cut out all the pattern pieces. I've decided to use the pink polka dots for the waistband, bias tape on pocket and inner skirts. This will allow the pretty floral print to peek through from the pocket nicely.  It's up to you how you want to layer your colors.

Okay, once you have cut the pieces. Lay the outer skirt piece on top of the inner skirt piece, aligning the waist and pocket seams like so. Both pieces will have their Right Side face up. Do the same for the 2 back skirt pieces.

Then, pin the 2 pocket pieces on top of the front skirts, align pocket seams. The pocket pieces Right Side face up. Pin or baste all the 3 layers together.

Apply the bias tapes on the pocket seams, encase all the 3 layers.

Treat the waist and hem of both skirts either using serger or zig zag stitches.  Then, hem the Outer skirt like so.

Then, place the front and back skirts pieces together, Right Side facing, align the side seams.  Try to arrange the skirt pieces so that the front and back outer skirt seams are align. Pin and sew a basting stitch from hem and stop when you reach the outer skirt seams.

This will ensure that the outer skirt seams meet nicely at the sides. Then, you can continue to sew the skirt from the waist till you reach the hem at the basting stitches you have sewn earlier.

Press seams open and hem the inner skirt.

Make the waistband by sewing the 2 short ends close.  For one end, you need to leave about 1" gap for inserting of elastic band later.  You can refer to the instruction attached in your pattern package or follow my tutorial here. Then, fold the band into half lengthwise and press with iron. The 1" gap that you have made should be at the top edge of the waistband, facing in. Treat the seams with serger or zig zag so that it will not move when you attach to the skirt.

Then, just follow the rest of the instruction to gather the waist of the skirt to attach it to the waistband. Insert elastic band and you are all done.

Want to make an adult version?

For this I only make it one layer so it's a matter of getting the measurement right. I make the pocket 1" deeper but uses the same pocket pieces.  You can follow the measurement rules below that I used.

Waistband = Length (waist X 1.3) and Width (3.5") 
The skirt piece is not a rectangle but more tapered at waistline and getting slightly wider at hem. To get the measurement of the top of the skirt 
Front skirt piece waist width = (Waist X 1.6) divide by 2 - 0.5"
Back skirt piece waist width = (Waist X 1.6) divide by 2 + 0.5"
Front and Back skirt piece hem width = Waist X 2 [so you cut 2 pieces, each piece is waist length]     
Length of skirt  = your length + seam allowance for waistband and hem.

That's it. Enjoy making these skirts : )

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