Since I've lined the hoodie the direction for attaching the hoodie will be different. I follow the instruction in Ottobre 6/2012 Kettu Pettunen hooded velour jacket with faux fur knit lining as a guide. But I also changed some steps since I didn't bind the front edge of the hoodie with ribbings.
|no raw seams! all encased : )|
Here's the steps that I did:
- Stitch pockets with zippers on front bodice
- Stitch the raglan sleeve to front and back bodice, top stitch
- Stich hoodie, insert grommets and attach to jacket
- Repeat step 2 and 3 (except for grommets) for Lining piece
- Place the 2 hoods Right Side Facing (RSF) and stitch the face edge, turn RS out and stitch 2.5cm from face edge to make the channel for the drawstring. [I use some cotton cord instead]
- Pin necklines of outer and lining seam allowance (SA) together and stitch back neckline SA together. [This will ensure that your outer and lining hood stays together and don't move around when you wash or wear them]
- Pin the hem of outer and lining together, RSF, stitch. Turn RS out and your raw edge is now nicely concealed.
- Stitch sleeve edge [This part is more complicated] Bring bottom edge of outer and lining sleeves end to end, pin and stitch together RSF. THe sleeves are not within one another. Pull the lining sleeve through the main sleeves and you will have your raw seams encased. No raw edge!
- Fold in the front edge for inserting of separating zipper so that your raw edge is nicely encased as well. I'm sure there is a better way to do this but for now, this will do.
- Insert cotton cord or drawstring through hood channel, stitch in the ditch along centre seam line on hood so that cord will not slip out accidentally.
There! You are done. I managed to finish it in 4 hours, a long time i know, but I was trying to figure how to line the hoodie and hide the seams plus first time inserting grommets on a hood.
Closer look at the grommet. I didn't have the tools to insert it so I just use my craft hammer and hammer it in! I covered the top with a piece of fleece though. Not too bad from afar.
Summary of the changes that I've made:
- Add lining of micro fleece
- Remove sleeve cuff and hem band
- Remove the zipper trim since my zipper is already so colorful.
- Conceal the zipper edges between the front edges so that all raw seams are enclosed.
|front edge fold in seam allowance to wrong side and insert zipper.|
I used ballpoint needles and walking foot to sew my fleece. For the flannel, I just use regular 80 size sewing needle. I realized that my stitch is even when I use Gutterman thread. My cheap thread always result in skipped stitch and jammed my machine. So I decided to save the agony and just buy them, though they are quite expensive.
My girl loves the hoodie because it's so colorful and has drawstring in the hood with zipper pockets! It is also ultra soft. I was sad that I didn't buy more of these micro fleece for myself.
|Since the sleeve is so long, she can fold up and show some of the cute lilac lining!|