Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Drawstring Flannel Hoodie

Another hoodie.  This time for my 8 year old.  I've adapted the hoodie from this jacket from Ottobre 4/2012 "Born To Run" size 140. [I'm making full use of my subscription to Ottobre : )]

I've used Alpine flannel in spring flowers for the outer piece and line the hoodie with soft micro fleece in sweet lilac, both from Fabric.com.  I wanted it to be slightly bigger so that she can layer it so went 1 size up. The fit is roomy but not too big, but the sleeve is already long with the cuff and hem band. So, I decided not to put it in. Also line the hoodie since it's going to be rather cold in Japan come December.

Since I've lined the hoodie the direction for attaching the hoodie will be different.  I follow the instruction in Ottobre 6/2012 Kettu Pettunen hooded velour jacket with faux fur knit lining as a guide.  But I also changed some steps since I didn't bind the front edge of the hoodie with ribbings.

no raw seams! all encased : )

Here's the steps that I did:
  1. Stitch pockets with zippers on front bodice
  2. Stitch the raglan sleeve to front and back bodice, top stitch
  3. Stich hoodie, insert grommets and attach to jacket
  4. Repeat step 2 and 3 (except for grommets) for Lining piece
  5. Place the 2 hoods Right Side Facing (RSF) and stitch the face edge, turn RS out and stitch 2.5cm from face edge to make the channel for the drawstring. [I use some cotton cord instead]
  6. Pin necklines of outer and lining seam allowance (SA) together and stitch back neckline SA together.  [This will ensure that your outer and lining hood stays together and don't move around when you wash or wear them]
  7. Pin the hem of outer and lining together, RSF, stitch. Turn RS out and your raw edge is now nicely concealed. 
  8. Stitch sleeve edge [This part is more complicated] Bring bottom edge of outer and lining sleeves end to end, pin and stitch together RSF. THe sleeves are not within one another. Pull the lining sleeve through the main sleeves and you will have your raw seams encased. No raw edge!
  9. Fold in the front edge for inserting of separating zipper so that your raw edge is nicely encased as well.  I'm sure there is a better way to do this but for now, this will do.  
  10. Insert cotton cord or drawstring through hood channel, stitch in the ditch along centre seam line on hood so that cord will not slip out accidentally.
There! You are done.  I managed to finish it in 4 hours, a long time i know, but I was trying to figure how to line the hoodie and hide the seams plus first time inserting grommets on a hood.

Closer look at the grommet.  I didn't have the tools to insert it so I just use my craft hammer and hammer it in! I covered the top with a piece of fleece though. Not too bad from afar.

Summary of the changes that I've made:
  1. Add lining of micro fleece
  2. Remove sleeve cuff and hem band
  3. Remove the zipper trim since my zipper is already so colorful.
  4. Conceal the zipper edges between the front edges so that all raw seams are enclosed.
front edge fold in seam allowance to wrong side and insert zipper.

I used ballpoint needles and walking foot to sew my fleece.  For the flannel, I just use regular 80 size sewing needle.  I realized that my stitch is even when I use Gutterman thread.  My cheap thread always result in skipped stitch and jammed my machine. So I decided to save the agony and just buy them, though they are quite expensive.

My girl loves the hoodie because it's so colorful and has drawstring in the hood with zipper pockets! It is also ultra soft. I was sad that I didn't buy more of these micro fleece for myself.

Since the sleeve is so long, she can fold up and show some of the cute lilac lining!


Melanie said...

This is so darling!!! I just happened upon your post. Do you happen to have some of the selvage left for that pretty flannel? I'd love to know the name/designer of that print!

Eunice said...

Its Alpine flannel in spring flowers that I got from Fabric.com here. (https://www.fabric.com/buy/0271459/alpine-flannel-spring-flower-coral)
Description from Fabric.com:
Designed by doodlebug designs inc. for Alpine Fabrics this double napped (brushed on both sides) flannel is perfect for quilting, apparel and home décor accents. Colors include shades of pink, peach, gold, white and grass green.