Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Half Yard Wonder - Scallop Tunic

Have you got the same fabric yet? If not, no worry, read on and see if you are tempted to follow on : )

1/2 yard of cotton fabric with nice print
Grosgrain ribbon, length about 2m
small strips of coordinating fabric

This is my fabric with such nice cute print and eyelet details on top and scallop print below.

Shoulder Straps
1) First cut away the scallop print below as you will be using it as shoulder straps.

2) Cut 2 strips of about 8" long each. The width I used is about 2" but that will depend how wide is your pattern print.  Remember to leave seam allowance on all 4 sides.

3) Cut 2 strips of coordinating fabric to be used as the backing for your 2 straps.  You can also use your main fabric if you have enough to go around.  I used some pink cotton that was already in my stash.

3) Iron on light interfacing on the back of the scallop print fabric. Then, pin your backing fabric to the main strap, Right Side Facing, aligning the sides.  I serge the 2 long edges so that it's easier to work with.

4) I use a fabric marker to draw out the scallop shape so it's easier on the eyes when I sew around the curvy scallop print. Go slow and use a smaller stitch length like 1.5 or 2. When you reach the bottom of the curve, pivot your fabric with your needle still in the fabric and then move up slowly again.

click on photo to see the sewing stitches along the scallop print

5) Trim away the excess fabric above the scallop curves and clip the areas around the curve.

6) Turn the fabric Right Side out and press with iron. See the nice scallops!

7) Top stitch along the scallop so that it will lay flat.  For the other side of the strap, fold in 1/4" on both the main and backing fabric so that both seam allowance faced in.  Press. Sew the long edge close.  Do the same for the other strap.  Your straps are ready to be inserted to the main tunic bodice.

Ribbon Casing
1) I'm using the existing eyelet for my ribbon casing.  Since it's see-through, I need to sew another piece of fabric behind the eyelet for the ribbon and modesty.  So, cut a long piece of fabric the same length as your fabric with width of 4.5" The width must cover the eyelet of course. Let's call this Fabric B for ease of reference.

2) Lay Fabric B on top of main fabric, directly over the eyelet. The Right side of B face up. Pin in place.

3) Find the centre of the fabric and mark with pin. I wanted my straps to be 6" apart.  So, measure 3" from each side of the centre pin and make a mark. These 2 marks will be the placement of your 2 straps.

Place your strap, Right side Face Down, sandwich between the Fabric B and main fabric. I've decided that the scallop edges will face out.  See below.

4) Sew the main fabric, Fabric B and strap along the edge using 3/8" seams allowance. Then, flip Fabric B over to the Wrong side and press. Top stitch about 3/8" from the top.  See the pink Fabric B peeking out from the eyelet!

5) Then, sew another line about 0.5" below the eyelet to make the ribbon casing.  Serge the bottom edge of Fabric B so that the edge will not fray.

Sewing Tunic
1) With Right side facing, sew the back seam together and serge/zig zag the raw seams.  Try to match the print along the seams. Press seams open.

2) Take measurement of your kid to ensure that the strap is long enough and mark the strap length.  Serge or zig zag the short edge. Pin the other end of the strap to the back of the tunic, making sure that the straps are equal distance from the centre back seams.  

3) I wanted the tunic to be more fitting and remove any gap behind, so I made a 1" pleat on both sides of the straps and sew it along the earlier sewn lines.  Sew the strap in place.  Or if you like, you can also sew elastic band here to clinch the back.

4) Hem the tunic and serge the raw seams.  Press the hem. Turn the tunic right side out. Thread the ribbon through the eyelet from the back and let the ribbon meet in front and make a big bow.

Match with a white T-shirt and you are good to go!

My girl in her 'Mat-yo-yo' pose! She loves the tunic and got many compliments at church last Sunday. I'm happy that she can match it with her favorite pair of jeans. So, double win!

Next up, the Scallop dress tutorial... Come back again. I'll post it once I got the steps written down. Let me know if you like my tutorial or if I need to be clearer in my instruction.

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