Tuesday, April 17, 2012

Half Yard Wonder - Scallop Pinafore Dress (Part 2)

Okay, sorry for the long break. Caught up at work. So, let's continue the tutorial shall we?

Attach front panel to skirt
1) Find the centre front and mark the position. Place the front panel, right side face down, on the centre marking. The front panel bottom edge should sit nicely along the waistband seams allowance.

2) Sew the front panel down at the centre front. 

Serge the whole length of the waistband with the front panel. 

3) Turn the skirt with Right side face up. Top stitch close to the top of the waistband. Make sure that your waistband can still accommodate the elastic band. This will help to ensure that the elastic band will be snugged and not shift around.

Inserting elastic band
My front panel measures about 8" wide and I only want to insert elastic band to the back portion of the skirt.  Her waist is 20" so, the portion for elastic band is 20" - 8" = 12".  

You can either insert the full 12" elastic from one side to the other side.  I've choose to cut the elastic into 2 and insert from both end of the side seams. This is because I find it hard to insert a long piece of elastic through the back seams and the narrow casing.

So, my elastic is cut to 6" each.

1) I use 2 tools to help me insert the elastic band.  You will recognize these 2 from my previous post.  A looper (not sure the exact name) to pull the elastic band through and a hemostats

Basically, I attach one end of the elastic band through the loop and tighten it. For the other end, I clip it with the hemostats.

2) Insert the other end of the looper (the one with red pinhead) through the waistband casing and guide the elastic band through.

3) Once the end of the elastic band reach the edge of the right side of the front panel, place a pin to secure the elastic. Click photo below to have a closer look

4) Using your finger, loosen the loop that was holding onto the edge of your elastic band.  Then, pull out the looper from the other open end of the waistband, leaving the elastic band inside.

5) Remember the hemostats that is holding onto the other end of the elastic band? Well, it will help to prevent the elastic band from going inside the casing. Pull the end of the elastic to be align close to the opening and place a pin to secure in place. Remove the hemostats once it is secure.

6) Sew a straight stitch over the end of the elastic band to secure it. Remove the pins.  Do the same for the other end of the elastic band.

7) For the other elastic band, you will need to use another method as one end of the waistband casing has been sewn closed so you can't use the looper to pull through.

Using a sewing needle and thread, tied a knot at the end of the thread and pull it through one end of the elastic band. Do not cut off the thread!  Use the hemostats to attach the other end of the elastic band.

8) Insert the needle through the other end of the waistband casing, pulling the elastic band with it.  Once your needle reach near the front panel, poke the needle through the casing and pull out the thread.

9) Using your finger, move the elastic band inside and place a pin to secure.  Once you have done that, you can cut off the thread.

10) With the help of the hemostats, pull the other end of the elastic band to the end of the casing and place a pin.  Sew other ends of the elastic bands in place.  Adjust the elastic band to distribute it evenly.

Sewing the skirt
1) Match the back seams and sew in place.

2) Cross the shoulder straps at the back and pin the ends at the waistband.  Sew the straps at the back.

The Back View

Front View

Some more photos

Last one : )

Happy Sewing!
I'll take a short break this week so see you next week at KCWC!

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