Sunday, August 14, 2011

Tutorial on National Day Red & White Skirts

Here's the tutorial for the Red and White skirts that I made for my girls for National Day.

Red skirt with lace

Measurement of my 18-month girl waist = 18"
Waistband area = 18"X 1.5 = 27"
Skirt width = 18"X 2 = 36"
Skirt length = 7

So, you cut 1 rectangle measuring 36" by 8.5" [including 1" for elastic band and 0.5" for skirt hem]

1. Fold the rectangle RSF (right side facing) and sew up the side seams with 0.5" seam allowance. Finish the seam with serger or zig zag. Press seam open.

2. Serge or zig zag the waist and hem area. Turn the skirt RSF out and lay the lace ontop of skirt (RSF).  Try to align the edge of the lace to the edge of the hem. Sew in place to secure lace around the skirt hem.

3. Turn the lace down and press. 

4. For the waistband, fold over 0.25" and press.  Fold another 0.75" waistband and press.  Sew close to the waistband edge and leave a 2" gap for inserting of elastic band.  I've used 19" long of 0.5" wide elastic band. Using a safety pin and push the band through the casing, overlap the band and sew with zig zag stitch to secure. Push the band inside the opening at waistband and sew it close.

Your pretty skirt is ready in 30 minutes!

Red skirt with pettiskirt and drawstring details

Skirt is made of 3 parts = Waistband, Outer skirt with drawstring and Inner pettiskirt with gathered hem.

For a tall 6 year old, waist = 22"
Waistband length = 23" X 1.5 = 34.5"
Waistband width = 4"

Outer Red skirt width = 22" X 2= 44"
Outer Red skirt length = 12.5"

Pettiskirt width = 22" X 1.8" = 40" [I just make it slightly smaller than the outer skirt]
Pettiskirt length = 12.5"
Pettiskirt hem width = 3"
Pettiskirt hem length = 22" X 2.5 =  55"

Drawstrings (2 pieces) = 20" X 0.75" [serge or zigzag the raw edges]
Drawstring casing = 3" X 11" [serge or zigzag the raw edges]

Red Outer Skirt
1) Sew the side seams for the Red Outer skirt with Right Side Facing (RSF) with 3/8" seam allowance. Press seam open and serge the seams.

2) Serge the hem of the skirt. Fold in 0.5" of hem and sew a straight stitch near the serged edge all around the skirt hem. Press.

3) Flip the skirt to the Right Side and arrange the skirt so that the seam are now in the centre back.  Eyeball at about 1/4 section on the front Right side of skirt and place 2 pins to make the place where for the gathered drawstring.  You can also choose to place it in the middle or left side. The preference is yours.

Drawstring & Casing
1) To make the drawstring, fold the 2 sides of the strips to the middle so that it is now 0.25" X 20".  Sew a straight stitch in the middle of the strip. Do the same for the other strip.

2) To make the casing, fold the strip into half to make 1.5" X 11" and sew it close with 3/8" seam allowance.

3) Insert the the 2 strips through the casing and try to push the strips to the side of the casing. Pin the strips in place inside the casing as show. The edge of the strips should be align to the top of the casing.

4) Sew a straight stitch in the middle of the casing, in between the 2 strips. Go slow and make sure that you don't stitch the strips in!

Sew Casing to Red Outer Skirt
1) Turn the Red Outer Skirt Wrong Side Out and position the casing where your pins are. Pin the casing securely so that it's straight. The end of the casing should be just above your hem.

2) Sew a straight stitch in the middle of casing, making sure it's straight. Then, try pushing the 2 strips toward the middle of the casing by using pins to help you.  Re-pin your strap so that the sides of the casing have allowance for you to sew. 

3) Starting from the hem, sew close to the casing edge all the way to the top and across the casing top and down along the other sides of the casing back to the hem. Make sure that you don't accidentally sew the strips. Your strips should be loose so that you can pull them easily.
the front view of the 3 sewn lines
White Pettiskirt
1) Sew the seam together with RSF similar to step 1 of the Outer skirt. Press seam open and serged seam.

2) Sew the ruffled hem of the pettiskirt by sewing a gathering stitch (using the widest stitch length) on one side at 2/8".  It will curl up automatically.  You can adjust the gathers so that it roughly fits the length of your pettiskirt hem. 

3) Pin the gathered edge of the hem to the hem of the white pettiskirt, RSF. Sew with 3/8" seam or just enough to cover your gathered stitch.

4) Turn the gathered hem down and turn the skirt Right Side Out. Turn the seam upwards and sew another row of stitches around the hem so that you catch the seams.  Then, sew a narrow hem on the pettiskirt hem.

1) Serge the raw edges.  As my white fabric is abit thin, I've folded the waistband strip twice so that it becomes 1" X 34.5". 

Assemble Waistband to Red skirt and Pettiskirt
1) Insert the White Pettiskirt (Right Side facing Out) into the Red Outer skirt (Right Side facing Out). Align the waistline. Pin both pieces together at waist and sew a basing stitch close to the edge.

2) Then, insert the waistband over the Red and White Skirt and pin in place. Make sure that you cover the basing stitch.  As you have fold over twice, the raw edges are all inside the skirt. 

3) Sew a straight stitch close to the edge to secure waistband to skirt. Remember to leave 2"gap for inserting of your elastic band.  Your elastic band should be the same length as the waist as you will overlap about 0.5"and zigzag the overlapped area close.  Pull the elastic inside the skirt and sew the opening close.  Your skirt is complete!

Phew.  Anyone is lost? I hope not. Let me know if my instruction is not clear.

1 comment:

Anne and Carrie said...

This is exactly what I was looking for!! Thanks so much, it's adorable!